2003 Yamaha XLT 800 66e Projects - Page 13 - PWC Forum: The best hang-out for Personal WaterCraft enthusiasts
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post #121 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by T0MMY B0NES View Post
It was a WSM kit purchased from Bay Area Powersports off of eBay.
You could either go back through that eBay supplier or directly through wsm. May be easier through eBay supplier.
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post #122 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Checking on replacement rings with original supplier.

Now I am worried when cylinder was bored that it was overbored. I do not have access to a cylinder/bore/dial gauge, do any of the parts store lone this out? I really do not feel like dropping $150 on a tool I'll use twice. Anyone in the Nashville area capable of measuring cylinders? All I have is a sliding digital micrometer with "teeth" that are not long enough to "wrap" around the piston or deep enough in the cylinder.
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post #123 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Bay Area Powersports was nice enough to send over another set of rings to ensure they are the correct set. I cannot find anyone local that is willing to assist in measurements. I want to double check my cylinder bore as well as check the piston to cylinder clearance. Kind of stuck.
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post #124 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 08:22 PM
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Use a .003/.004 feeler guage between piston skirt and bore a .003 should be relatively loose. And a.004 should be snug. These feelers are thin enough to flex to the curve of the bore and be fine. Although it will measure a bit tighter due to curve.

The overbore size should be stamped on the top of the Pistons. It will be marked .25,.50....ext

Last edited by Dave in DE; 09-09-2019 at 08:25 PM.
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post #125 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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Use a .003/.004 feeler guage between piston skirt and bore a .003 should be relatively loose. And a.004 should be snug. These feelers are thin enough to flex to the curve of the bore and be fine. Although it will measure a bit tighter due to curve.

The overbore size should be stamped on the top of the Pistons. It will be marked .25,.50....ext
I know the piston are +1mm (81), I am afraid the cylinders were overbored causing the larger gap in the piston rings BUT I am hopeful the replacement rings fit better.

Do you measure the piston/cylinder gap with the rings on the piston helping it stay centered? And essentially you measure the bottom of the cylinder and the bottom the piston?
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post #126 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Worked a bit today, seems like good news. I removed the cylinder and piston and measured, sure enough piston skirt to cylinder "skirt" allows the 0.003" and the 0.004" being very snug, 0.005" would not fit. This makes me feel a bit better about the cylinders and I am keeping my fingers crossed the replacement rings will solve my large ring end gap.

Not sure if it matters at all, 3rd picture is the 0.009 feeler inserted between the cylinder wall and the piston wall, not the skirt. Essentially 90 degrees away from the skirt measurement.
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post #127 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:35 PM
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You got it. I measure w/o the rings just at the skirt area as you did. The .009 is not as critical. That area is cut away to reduce friction. The piston is centered by the skirts.

The rings are just a mis matched set. Probably for .5 over. It happens every now and then.
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post #128 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Replacement rings will be here Friday! Time to knock out some things on my "punch list".
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post #129 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Prepping ski for engine install. I was replacing oil line on my used oil pump. Service manual claims to ensure proper check valve operation, blow through them. I cannot blow through ANY of the valves. Is there anyway to clean them? Maybe "force" open with some compressed air? Trying to avoid the $18/valve, that could add up quick.
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post #130 of 156 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 07:57 PM
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Try connecting them up to a can of carb cleaner. That should push through them. It only take a few of pounds to offset them. Just be sure to thoroughly bleed the system. I use my DeWalt 18v impact driver with a 6 point 10mm socket. it fits the pump perfectly. A drill will work though. Turn the pump shaft CCW and open the pump cam or if it's hooked the carbs tie the throttle open. That will help bleed it quicker.
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