2003 Yamaha XLT 800 66e Projects - Page 7 - PWC Forum: The best hang-out for Personal WaterCraft enthusiasts
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post #61 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 07:36 PM
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Reading up on these carbs, while I have them out, should I perform OsideBill's mods while I have the carbs out? The pressure return mod and the accelerator delete mod? I also have a primer kit to install.
Only the oil lines are 1/8". Other than the accelerator pump lines there 1/8 as well but I would leave them as is. All your fuel lines are a 1/4" high grade rubber that Yamaha used and I'd also reuse them also. There kind of gray/green in color.

Yes, do the return mod. Don't delete the accelerator pump. You'll need an 87.5 main jet for your return line mod.
There really isn't a need for the primer. The choke and the excelerator pump do the same thing. As you crank it you can pump the throttle a couple times. This squirts fuel in from accelerator pump. When the carbs are clean and correct it will fire right up easily.
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post #62 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Previous owner boogered up the needle valve cover screw, I messed with it with every bit I have, cannot get a "grip". I busted out the dremel hoping to be able to "slot" the screw head in order to get a flat head but from the space is too tight to get a cutting disc to the screw head. Is my only option trying to drill the screw out then replace it? Does someone make a screw extractor for something this small?
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post #63 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 07:25 PM
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First try a flat faced punch and hammer to hit it a few times then try again with screw driver. The punch will flatten the face and help loosen it. As last ditch effort get some of these from lowes. They work real good in the DeWalt battery impact driver. The speed outs are a left hand drill and extractor. With a few punch hits and then the left hand drill in impact/drill should get it also
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post #64 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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First try a flat faced punch and hammer to hit it a few times then try again with screw driver. The punch will flatten the face and help loosen it. As last ditch effort get some of these from lowes. They work real good in the DeWalt battery impact driver. The speed outs are a left hand drill and extractor. With a few punch hits and then the left hand drill in impact/drill should get it also
I hope you have Venmo or Paypal, what kind of beer you drinking Dave, I owe you at least that. I was afraid to at first but heeded your advice once again and got aggressive wit the hammer and flat head and was able to "catch" enough of it to turn it out.

The needle valve and seat that was installed is a 1.5, I guess I purchased 1.2 when I returned the off brand kit and bought the Mikuni rebuild kit. The hi speed reads 150, is this correct? Are the T-handle tuning screws worth the money? I have to buy a new screw, 6M6-14503-00-00, it got destroyed upon removal, so I unfortunately will have to make another order unless I can source it around town tomorrow.

Pics
1. Needle Valve Screw Removed
2. Needle Valves (Left-New 1.2; Right-Old 1.5)
3. Jets - 150 and not sure
4 & 5 Old Powervalves - Are these reusable? I need to shave off something like .005 so rings don't catch, might help "smooth" it out.
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post #65 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 05:30 AM
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Appreciate the thought of the 🍻. I been turning a wrench to long. Not only for myself but as an industrial mechanic/machinist plus dad tought me a lot in my younger years. I just love passing it on.
The T screws I don't use, it's up to your preference. They would make it easier if you had to adjust on the ski.
Not sure on the jet size and don't see why someone would have changed it unless your ski was highly modded. So I believe it's factory.but have no way to confirm. I can find no reference to size in the manual. Let me do a bit of searching and get back to you.

The needle seat factory size is 1.2. the 1.5 that you removed may be due to few if any places list it. But do carry it. But if the carbs been set up to the 1.5 you may want to replace with 1.5.

Never reuse a damaged power valve. Even minor damages. Although they are expensive. They are very fragile and have a tendency to break. If your lucky they blow out the exhaust. If not you've blown up a motor. I've found many with hairline cracks in the blade. Always use the wave eater clips or sbt's link on the top of the valve as well to retain the cross pin. I prefer the sbt link.
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post #66 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 10:44 AM
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Ok. Original jet sizes are a 150 and 90. so you can use the 1.2 needle and seat it you want. And use factory settings for screws
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post #67 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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You learned the same way I did. I'm barely a shadetree mechanic but I know my way around a car and was always around my dad and in his shop when he raced stock cars for 25 years. Dad's are the best teachers. I owe you at least a case of beer if not a keg by the end of this thing!

So, been doing some thinking, which is always dangerous for me. I think I am going to hold off on all the "mods" until this winter, that includes, the return line, the T screws, maybe primer and accelerator delete. I wan to come back and paint everything in the winter too. My goal is to have both of these skis back together and broken in before Labor Day weekend.

Does the low speed jet have a number on it anywhere? Can I pop out to see the underside of it? Just want to make sure I am set 150 and 90 before moving forward. The 1.5 N&S was pretty nasty when I got it out. You'll have to excuse my ignorance when it comes to carbs, first time tearing one down. What would be affected moving to the new 1.2 N&S ? Looks like I might be delayed as I cannot locate the carb screw around Nashville so it will need to be ordered.
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post #68 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Called every powersport/motorsport company in Nashville, damn screw has to be special ordered as a set direct from Yamaha. Luckily it sounds like there is a warehouse in Georgia so shipping to Nashville should be pretty quick and screw is said to arrive this Friday. Until then I am kind of stuck. I might try to get back inside the hull and reconnect all of the electrical wires that the SBT manual instructed me to remove when I didn't need to. If I can get the hull waterproofed I will hang her up on the cherry picker and pressure wash the hull and let her air dry.

I guess I can also order the ear clamps for the oil lines and some new decent tubing to replace all the lines. I will not be replacing the fuel line but may replace some of the clamps.
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post #69 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 01:52 PM
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LMAO.... Dad always would joke, when I said I've been thinking. He'd say, oh shit this is going to cost me money. Struck me funny when you said "I've been thinking".
Nothing should change the 1.2 will work just need to use correct spring for needle/seat you want to be about 70/80 psi for pop off. I have the chart home.

Pm me your address With width x length in mm of screw. I have hex head ss screws here. Or try local ace hardware they carry them.
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post #70 of 93 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 01:56 PM
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LMAO.... Dad always would joke, when I said I've been thinking. He'd say, oh shit this is going to cost me money. Struck me funny when you said "I've been thinking".
Nothing should change the 1.2 will work just need to use correct spring for needle/seat you want to be about 70/80 psi for pop off. I have the chart home.

Pm me your address With width x length in mm of screw. I have hex head ss screws here. Or try local ace hardware they carry them.
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