2003 Yamaha XLT 800 66e Projects - Page 8 - PWC Forum: The best hang-out for Personal WaterCraft enthusiasts
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post #71 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 03:05 PM
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Don't do an accelerator delete on the 800. There is no known jetting recipe to get carbs right. It only exists for the 1200 and won't work on 800.
The only recipe for the 800 from Osidebill is the return mod. And that I had to do a bunch of digging to find what jet to use in the return. Trial and error!

Last edited by Dave in DE; 08-14-2019 at 03:07 PM.
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post #72 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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I'm sure my pops has said something along the lines of that. If I had said "I've been thinking.." to my pops, his immediate response is "Don't hurt yourself." I was helping my dad hang a picture once, told him it was crooked, I was then instructed "to just hold the tail, he was f%##ing this dog". My pops in a nutshell.

I can't find the size of the screw anywhere! Only thing I have found is a Yamaha and a Mikuni part number. I thought about local hardware but also didn't want to be driving around town all day so I opted to just order the screw.

So do not delete the accelerator pump, at all, ever, on the 800. Is there any need to install a primer in place of the choke if I still have accelerator pump? Does anyone want to buy a Mikuni primer kit? I got a brand new one for sale apparently.

Ordered an ear clamp set with extra 6mm clamps for the oil lines. It will be here Friday as well. Now I need to find some tubing, I may just head to the local lawn equipment company and pick some up. Think 25 feet would cover all of the oil lines in the boat? So I need 1/8" ID x 1/4" OD yes?
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post #73 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 04:35 PM
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On the 90 jet it's very small but on the edge just like lg jet.

Yes, there is no recipe to remove Accel pump from 800. And no need for primer once carbs are done. Will start nicely with choke and Accel pump. Once the carbs are primed up your good to go.

If Osidebill says he knows of no recipe for the 800 Accel removal. there probably isn't one. I know there have been some trying. To my knowledge none have succeeded.
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post #74 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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I'll have to break out my readers to try and verify the low jet. No need for me to complicate with the accel delete or primer so I will move on from them.
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post #75 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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My carb replacement screws did not come in today and the shop is closed on the weekend so I am stuck with the carbs at least until Monday. I might try to swing by local ace or lawn equipment tomorrow to see if I can source the screw. Is there anyway to find out the size and thread of the screw through a parts diagram? I have found zero that give part descriptions with sizes.

My Oetiker clamps and pliers showed up today. I have tygon line for oil pump, micrometer, and straight edge coming tomorrow. I still have an order to grab at AZ that has all my sealants and thread lockers needed for assembly. I also grabbed 2 gallons of Pennzoil Synthetic Blend Marine oil, opinions?

In the meantime I have the rats nest of wires to work in the electrical box and I need to figure out best course of action for removing the old fluids. I have a siphon pump but it almost seems easier to remove the tanks and dump the waste into fire pit or empty drum and dispose of. I would say both tanks are about half full of fluids I do not want to take the risk in reusing. Tank removal would help the hull cleaning as well.
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post #76 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 12:14 AM
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The Pennzoil synthetic is good stuff, high quality. I use it in my outboard boat motors. I use amsoil interceptor in my 800's. It a low smoke oil designed for power valve motors. Has added detergents to keep valves clean.

The screw you should be able to find at Ace or hardware store with a decent screw supply. I think it's 3mm but not certain. Take the old screw and find a nut to fit to confirm.

The rats nest is common EBox. Lol it a pain tracing a wire in them.

The tanks are easy to remove. And clean up nicely removed. Be sure to pull the sending unit from the oil tank to clean the filter. It's part of the sending unit.
Also be sure to mark the fuel lines well as you remove them from the tank unit. It's a pain in rear if they get misplaced later.
And yes it's much easier to clean up the hull with them out.

Here's a few pics of my gpr tanks out for cleaning after I purchased them. I used gunk motor cleaner and a scrub brush. Then purple cleaner. I've been told original easy off oven cleaner and pressure wash at local car wash is a great way also. I even stripped out the exhaust from the rear. And all the cowls/covers up front on the outside to clean under them.
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post #77 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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I found a screw that may work at Ace hardware. I'm at lunch but I took a pic, bear with me, it may be a huge picture. The head is a bit larger and the other difference is the threads go all the way up. They didn't have any washers so I will need to reuse the lock washer.
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post #78 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 05:16 PM
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Looks like that will do. What size is it? 3mm?
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post #79 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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It is 3mm, my only qualm was the "neck" of the screw. OEM is smooth and replacement is threaded, I will have to reuse the lock washer. Gimme the green light, I want on the water!
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post #80 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T0MMY B0NES View Post
It is 3mm, my only qualm was the "neck" of the screw. OEM is smooth and replacement is threaded, I will have to reuse the lock washer. Gimme the green light, I want on the water!
Threads going all the way to the head are not a problem.
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