Came across a free very clean wave runner. I’m about to install a rebuilt motor since the previous had a blown cylinder and about 300 hours. Owner told me everything was working great before the engine issue. This happened recently so it hasn’t been sitting. Has no reason to lie since giving it for free. My total investment will be about 3K since a trusted mechanic is doing the work. Also rebuilding the carbs. Only other work was a D plate install. I can most likely fix anything else that may go wrong with a almost 20 year old ski. If I get 3 years without soaking major dollars I’ll be happy.
Worth it?
If that comes with a trailer you'd be a bit upside down on value for my area but if you intend to hold on to it and you enjoy it that works. I have 2, I'm that way on. but I use and enjoy them. When I do decide to sell I'll get a decent price for them.
Have you ordered it yet. SBT would not be my choice for a motor. Very poor reputation
Would recommend pwcengines instead. same basic pricing much better reputation.[/QUOTE]
I hear you but I need to trust my mechanic. His business is only jet skis and he’s been around for a while. Others I know have used sbt and are still going strong.
I hear you but I need to trust my mechanic. His business is only jet skis and he’s been around for a while. Others I know have used sbt and are still going strong.[/QUOTE]
That's cool, if your mechanic has good luck with them. I have never personally used one of there motors. Lots of there parts and top ends. Just here a lot of bad about there motors is all.
Just found the Yamaha factory service manual for free online. I’m printing it out now. I see the same on eBay and Amazon for close to $100. Am I missing something?
I’ve been reading posts about the weak links with these skis. Seems it’s the oil lines and power valve clips. I was worried about the oil pump because of the age but seems they’re bulletproof. I’m now a little relieved since I was wondering why I found a little food syringe with the ski. I’m assuming with a new sbt PV motor they’ve installed the new wave eater clips? I’ll make sure my mechanic replaces the oil lines. Thanks for the replies
Just a update. After a long two weeks, I picked up my WR yesterday. The SBT motor is really sounding great. Got it out in the water for a couple hours yesterday for the recommend break in procedures. It’s getting sort of double dosages of oil since the break in oil was added to the gas. Once the 10 gallons of gas are used, I can really increase RPM’s. After that second tank of just gas I can do whatever I please. I’ll also replace the plugs at that point. Wanted to continue riding yesterday but I think something got stuck either in the intake grate or impeller. Just went out and started it and just running it tied up it seems the issue has corrected itself. Fingers crossed ? I’ll keep the updates going.
Wanted to finish the break in this weekend on my new SBT motor but the rain put a damper on that. The ski is running well. Can’t wait to replace the plugs as soon as I finish the last few gallons of oil mixed gas.
Was able to do some basic maintenance items and noticed a loose bolt on the intake duct. I didn’t see any water leaking around it when in the water so I’m assuming it’s been like that for a while. It threads into a brass fitting visible from inside the rear hull. There’s epoxy poured around it. I can’t get the bolt tightened. I tried to clamp a vice grip on the brass piece inside but no luck. Should I worry about it? No idea how to free it up to tighten it. I included a couple photos.
At this point I'd leave it till after riding season. Do it as an off season repair. If it won't come out gripping the insert with vise grips. Then you may need to drill a Small hole in the top of the insert to spray in some pb blaster. Let it soak a day or two. Then try with vice grips again. Once out you'll need an 8mm tap to clean up the insert threads. Clean the outside of the insert and epoxy real good with acetone. Rough it up with sand paper and clean again. Then mix up plenty of jb weld and reglue the insert with plenty of jb weld. Then use anti seise on your bolts.
Thanks Dave! Would of never thought to drill a small hole. I might as well check the condition of the other three bolts as well as the intake grate. I have a feeling I’ll be needing to take the bolts off in the future for some reason or another. In the meantime, I should probably apply some silicone just in case messing with it could of caused a leak. I’m going to try and continue my season through October ?
I wouldn't put anything on it. If it leaks a bit your bildge pump should take care of it.
Silicone sealant on it now won't let the jb weld stick later.
If it leaks really bad I'd cut season short and fix. You've already been on the water correct? So it couldn't be to bad.
found a small 1/8” hose connected to a fitting right next to the rear seat latch. It’s just laying in the bilge area. Labeled vent. Does it connect to anything?
The older batteries had a vent attachment. That's what it went to. Rarely if ever needed now. Almost all the batteries I've seen over the last few years are non vented.
Thanks ? for the compliment ?. I do my best to help find the info your looking for.
The oil filter on your ski is in the oil tank. It's actually part of the sending unit. Just undo the clamp and lift it out. Just be sure to empty it first and bleed the system after. Yes, it should probably be cleaned after 20 years. The tank will need to be drained, and removed.
They get quite a bit of debris in them and a paraffin like mess in the bottom. The pic is the schematic from "Babbittsonline" parts. You'll need to also replace the packing #8 that seals the filter to tank. It may stick in the tank but is easy to remove with a piece of wire or mechanical fingers. I clean mine with fuel. Just be careful. Don't smoke! Lol.
Forgot to add use a soft brush on the filter with fuel to clean.
Both my 20 yr old tanks had grass and sand in them. Just a general mess.
The oil filter on your ski is in the oil tank. It's actually part of the sending unit. Just undo the clamp and lift it out. Just be sure to empty it first and bleed the system after. Yes, it should probably be cleaned after 20 years. The tank will need to be drained, and removed.
They get quite a bit of debris in them and a paraffin like mess in the bottom. The pic is the schematic from "Babbittsonline" parts. You'll need to also replace the packing #8 that seals the filter to tank. It may stick in the tank but is easy to remove with a piece of wire or mechanical fingers. I clean mine with fuel. Just be careful. Don't smoke! Lol.
Forgot to add use a soft brush on the filter with fuel to clean.
Both my 20 yr old tanks had grass and sand in them. Just a general mess.[/QUOTE]
What’s the packing made out of? What should I have on hand?
This will be another task for winter. There’s only 96 hours on the original motor. I’ll for sure let you know what I find. Thanks again Dave!
To do a quote: tap the little square in the upper right corner of the post you want to quote. Then tap the quote mark on the green bar beside the BLK circle you use to post. And Wa,la, your there.
[/QUOTE]
What’s the packing made out of? What should I have on hand?
This will be another task for winter. There’s only 96 hours on the original motor. I’ll for sure let you know what I find. Thanks again Dave![/QUOTE]
I disconnected the fill hose and sending unit wires. Put a mess of paper towels in the floor of the ski. Unbolted tank straps, an appsolute 'PITA'. Then took loose the hose going to the pump and removed with finger over hose connection on tank.
You probably will need to remove the exhaust From the rubber coupling on back to get room.
Tie the hose to the pump up so it doesn't drain everything out of the pump or plug the line.
The packing is a donut made of some kind of foam rubber. To seal the end of the filter and tank connection.
You may be surprised what you find. But then again it may not be to bad other the paraffin. Although my 02 gpr only had 30hrs on it a couple yrs back when I bought it. And it had a mess in it. My 01 had a hand full of sand in it. It was a beach ski so they weren't very careful filling it. But then again they never flushed either. Motor was a corroded mess in cooling jackets.
Any ideas to fix the following issue that I think is carburetor or fuel delivery related. My wave runner is breaking in well except I need to slightly choke the carbs to get speeds higher than 10mph. If I increase throttle while the choke is fully in (open) it boggs down and sounds like it’s going to die out. Only after choking a little does it take off to a good speed upwards of 50 mph. It’s never died and seems to idle well. Occasionally I’m hearing it miss but that could be because the plugs are oil fouled. I had the break in oil mixed in the gas for the first 10 gallons. I added a fresh 4 gallons or so this last weekend. I’d say there was about 4-5 gallons left in the tank so there’s still a oil mix. I did change the plugs but still no change with the carb issue. Any suggestions?
If you need to add choke to run your to lean on carbs. Your running a risk of lean seizure. Best bet is to give the carbs a full rebuild with Mikuni kits.
I Also have a 1999 XL1200 Ski here in the UK. I was told that these engines are pretty good as they don't have the reed valves fitted which break up and lunch the engine....Apparently the reed valves were fitted to the XLT1200.....Does anybody know if my information is correct?
Hi Keith,
The 99 does have Reed valves. But may not have power valves in the exhaust. listings for US models show that the 99 had power valves and the 98 did NOT. But that may not be the case with UK models. Easy way to tell. On the left top of the motor there will be 3 little four bolt covers. If it has power valves. there at an angle and partly covered by the exhaust manifold. See pic.
Sense you've already broken one and others are siesed. You may want to replace the brass inserts with one piece ones. I believe the ones used on the 04 and up GP1300r will work based on my findings. (Babbittsonline part number F1G-U8571-02-00). This will require some work to prep and glue/epoxy in, but would be a permanent repair. If you go this route clean area well with acetone before and after sanding.
Check out this sticky on Greenhulk pwc forum. It's in Yamaha, how to's (see pic). this is a pump tunnel reinforcement sticky but uses the one piece plates to replace inserts.
Thank You! After I remove all the epoxy that’s holding in the inserts, will they just come out? It seems they’re held in somehow. I see how the bracket will work if the bolt spread is the same dimension. What kind of epoxy should I get? Is it the west marine? I’m guessing some 5200 will hold it in place once I get the alignment right with the shoe bracket. Then epoxy them in from the hull. For what the bracket costs it’s worth a try to just order since I have lots of work to do.
No problem ??.
The inserts set in a hexagon molded into the hull. Then they goop the epoxy on top. I have one on my ride plate I fixed using the jb weld trick. But if I were in your situation I go with those plates.
I'd think you'll have to grind/sand the area for the plates a then use some west Marine epoxy to build it up level and then use some more to epoxy the plate down. You Could even use tape on the outside of the hull to cover bolt holes and epoxy over all of it. Then re-drill the holes. Bolt the plates down from outside and epoxy it down.
I think I'd still use the plates. Just need to grind down the high hex edges. And glue them down. Just need to make sure it's closed in so water can't come in.
If you use the old be sure the threads inside are ok. Clean them well and treads as well with a tap. Rough it all up hull included. And use jbweld. Put anti seise on a bolt and litely secure the inserts in place. I never use lock tite, only anti seise. Especially on the inserts in the hull.
The new brackets fit perfectly. There was no need to grind down the hexagonal seats. I roughed up the area and cleaned out the holes with sandpaper. Also, cleaned with acetone. It’s all ready for 5200 and epoxy. See photos?
I went ahead and removed the carbs. I have time before season starts so I figured I’d check everything out. Even though all the lines look great I’m going to go ahead and replace the oil lines. Also, doing the drilled return. The removal of the exhaust and intake wasn’t too bad. Every bolt and hose is accounted for and hopefully the reinstall goes well. Any thoughts on the drilled return mod? I’ve already read through the greenhulk postings.
Yes it's a very easy, and great upgrade. I did it to both my 800's. just had to use a different return jet, To get proper return pressure.
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