[t.50682/]

It's on the top and side of the battery. Looking down, you will not see the actual nippe. It will just look like a part of the battery extends out to the side about a 1/2" or so, and is about a 1/2 or so wide.
I bet that line reaches to the battery.

 

[t.50682/]

Is there a vent line hooked to the battery ? Those are explosive gases that need to exit the engine compartment. It will go to the same big white tube as the tank vent.

 

[t.50682/]

Yep, that's the tank vent. The arrow should be pointing to the tank. I don't remember exactly how they did it with that ski, but it should hook to the water separator, then out of the ski. Back in the dark underworld back there. Might have to be a contortionist to find and get to it.

 

[t.50682/]

The end that say tank, goes on the tank side of that vent line. You should have two smaller nipples on the tank end, facing the engine (not the two main nipples on top). One of those is for the return line, and the other is the tank vent (should be the one . The blue line with the check valve with the label "tank" with arrow goes to that, and the arrow points to the tank. It is not a fuel supply line. If you were to hook that up with the label "tank" facing away from the fuel tank, it would allow fuel to spill out in a roll over.
Scroll down some in this post I found. Has a view of the tank and lines.

http://www.pwcforum.com/vintage-jetski/10336-1993-waveblaster-1989-wavejammer-project.html

 

[t.50682/]

Do you have 2 or 3 nipples on the petcock ?

 

[t.50682/]

The tank has a vent line to allow air in as fuel is used. It has a one way check valve on it, so fuel cannot get out, in case of a rollover.
Yes, the pulse line goes to the engine. It is a vacuum that pulses the fuel pump.
You should have a vent line going into, and out of the water separator. This prevents water from getting into the tank, via the vent, in case of a roll over. This line will have a check valve on it, and is most likely the blue line you are seeing. Find the water separator, and see if there is a line going from it to the venting system on the hull.

Yamaha WaveRunner Parts 1989 WJ500F VENTILATION Diagram

 

[t.50682/]

Is this the blue line you are talking about ?

89 1989 Yamaha 500 WJ Wave Jammer jetski Jet Ski Fuel Pump Filter Petcock Hose | eBay

 

[t.50682/]

Here's what you should have.
On and reserve from the tank to the valve.
Out from the valve to the fuel in on the fuel pump. (this is the one that has a screw in the center of the cover).
Return from the carb to the tank.
Pulse line from the engine.
Vent off the tank with a check valve.
You should have three locations on the petcock. On, res, and to carb. On and reserve pull from their own locations on the tank.
Some systems used a restrictor in the return line to limit the amount of fuel returning to the tank, so the engine would not get starved (kind of like a pressure regulator), but I'm not seeing it anywhere on yours.
If it is a clear blue line, that is most likely some after market fuel line. it probably feels very rubbery.

Yamaha WaveRunner Parts 1989 WJ500F FUEL TANK Diagram

 

[t.50682/]

Tell me what you have hooked up.

 

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I may have to stand corrected for this ski. To many out there to keep my old brain straight. Sorry. The 89 does not appear to use a injection system. There would be a oil tank under the cowling. From what I have, Yamaha started using the oil injection system on the 650 Wave runner (wra650).

 

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Yes it is a 2 stroke engine. 2 strokes do not have oil in the crank case. All the oil they get is from the oil/fuel mixture. pwc's came from the factory with a oil injection system that is very reliable. If you are going to premix, then you need to get a block off plate, cap all the injection ports, and remove the oil tank. Mix is 50:1. If there is any sign that a seal is leaking oil, chances are very good that seal is bad, and causing a air leak, which WILL create a lean condition, and seize the engine. This is what a pressure check verifies. If this is the case, you need to replace the seals before use.
That info is in my head.
Look around ebay for a service manual.

 

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145-150 are good numbers, but they need to be within 5-10 psi of each other. I would do a pressure check. if the seals are bad, you won't make it through the season. If all checks out, then I would just reseal it in the off season. Replace the oil injection, and fuel lines, and read up on how to prime the oil injection system before starting the engine.

 

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Should be on the left hand handle bar with the start button. Normally, the lanyard will clip in underneath it.

 

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The rust is pro from the rings and cyl walls. If there's that much, I would just plan on boring. I'm going to assume that there is rust on the crank. Look very, very, very carefully at the rod needle bearings. If you see even one little speck of rust, or the slightest bit of roughness in the bearing, get the crank rebuilt. If they come apart, carnage will occur. If any doubt, replace. Forgot to mention, replace the crank seals. they are old and bad. if you don't now, you will have an air leak and a lean condition, that will burn that nice new engine up. Cheap insurance.

 

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Cannot resurface pistons. They are made a specific size. The finished cyl's should be sized to the pistons. You will need to check, or have checked, the thrust clearances on the crank and make sure the bearings are all good. At a very minimum, you are looking at pistons, rings, pins, wrist pin bearing, gaskets, and carb kit. When you disassemble the carb, make note of exactly how many turns from seat the mixture screws are. They need to be reinstalled to that exact setting.
You should be able to find a manual on ebay, or your local dealer.